Roof Shingle Wind Damage Assessment & Diagnosis For ...

Published Oct 16, 20
5 min read

A Beginner's Guide to 4 Ways High Winds Can Damage Your Roofing

When roofing shingles are not installed appropriately, you might discover that they lift up, leak, or perhaps fall off during the next windstorm. This kind of mistake can cost you more money in the long-run. There are likewise specific security issues to be knowledgeable about when performing DIY roofing repair.

A roof repair work can end up being even more harmful if you try to carry out a repair work when it is windy, rainy, or when the roofing system is slick with damp leaves or debris. Hauling heavy shingles and nails up a ladder can also posture a security danger. Other security concerns come from the usage of unfamiliar products or equipment.

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When you pick to go the DIY path with your roofing repair work, you not just risk losing money however likewise your valuable energy and time. Replacing shingles on your roof is difficult work that can take hours or even days, depending on the level of the damage. As the products are large, heavy, and hard to steer, replacing roofing shingles can be hard on the body.

It can be frustrating to find loose shingles tossed about your yard after a storm. Nevertheless, this is a typical issue that has a relatively easy fix. If your roofing is in otherwise excellent condition, simply the damaged area itself can be replaced to prevent water from permeating under the surrounding shingles.

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For more details on how to fix roof shingles blown off by a storm or to arrange a roofing system inspection, call our professional roof repair professionals at Beyond Outsides today. asphalt roof shingles.

There are 2 techniques by which shingles are connected to a roofing system: roof nails or adhesive strips. Generally roof nails have short shanks, sharp points, and broad, flat heads that allow them to permeate the shingle without tearing it. Some shingles are made with adhesive strips connected to the bottom which, when connected, produces a strong, water resistant seal to the shingle beneath it.

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It's great that the roofing is not leaking (you didn't point out that) but inappropriate setup will create leaks in the future. So, validating a couple of crucial items and after that officially notifying your builder (by licensed, return invoice mail) of inaccurate setup will secure your rights. I 'd inspect the following: Number of nails in each shingle: Each roof manufacturer requires a specific variety of nails into each shingle, usually 4 minimum.

( Where I live, 65 miles per hour winds would need 5 nails per shingle.) You'll find this info on each wrapper around each package of shingles. If no wrapper is around, you can find it on the maker's site. If you don't know the name of the producer, call the home builder. Nail Positioning: I see this incorrect on a lot of tasks.

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Nails need to be above the top of the eliminated in the 3-tab shingle, however about 1" listed below the mastic strip. Most roofers want to nail "in" the mastic strip. This is bad for 2 factors: a) it misses out on the shingle straight below, so there are just 4 nails holding the shingle on the roofing system rather of 8 nails, and b) it produces a little dip in the shingle due to the fact that it triggers the shingle to bend down over the top edge of the lower shingle.

Hand tabbing is positioning a quarter size dab of roof mastic "by hand" under each shingle. Nevertheless, many roof producers need hand tabbing "if the shingles have actually not self-sealed in an enough time." This is a bit approximate, but "adequate time" suggests "within the warranty duration." (You can get that validated by the roofing manufacturer.) So, the method to test this is to go up on the roofing and try to raise a shingle tab (bend a shingle tab up) (roof shingles repair).

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The roofing contractor will tell you the shingles will "self tab" down. That implies they prepare for the sun heating the shingle up until it adheres to the mastic strip under each tab. The problem is that it may not get warm enough in your area or the nails are not set flush and the nails are holding the shingles up above the mastic strip.

Many roofing contractors will stretch that to 6" or 6. 1/2". That gives the opportunity for the wind to lift more of the shingle and produces incorrect nailing, (missing the top of the lower shingle, etc.) Too except nails: Nails ought to totally permeate the plywood. Can you see the nails from inside the attic? Roof sheathing is too thin: 1/2" plywood or 5/8" particle board minimum, I think.



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